Saturday, July 31, 2010

Dasvidanya Russia!

This will be my last post from Russia.... I'm leaving for the Moscow airport in half an hour and from there to Dublin, after a quick stop in Copenhagen.

It's been a wonderful, amazing, eye-opening, life-changing experience. Once that I will never forget....

Friday, July 30, 2010

The Blink of an Eye

It's getting to be about that time.... in less than 24 hours I will be leaving Yaroslavl for Moscow and tomorrow afternoon, will get on a plane that will take me out of Russia. It's really difficult to grasp that my time here is over. I've spent so much time thinking about and preparing for this trip and now, it's all over. Time to go home ... and back to reality. I have been trying not to think about what awaits me when I get home... finding a new job, apartment, health insurance, everything... in order to enjoy my last few days in Europe, I know that it will hit me that first morning I wake up in Chicago. Back to real life. However, there is not a doubt in my mind that coming here, was worth what I had to give up.

The things that I learned, people that I met and experiences I had have been worth so much to me - a lifetime of unforgettable memories - that I cannot be anything but happy that I had this experience. I never in a million years thought that I would live and work in RUSSIA! Russia? Who goes to Russia?? Well.... I guess I do.

Without a doubt, the most rewarding and eye-opening experiences I've had obviously came during my time volunteering. Being able to see how these disadvantaged people lived, how they spent their days and what I could do to help... it was an incredibly rewarding experience. One that I will cherish forever. I only wish that I could do more! It is great to come here and help them, spend your day with them, give them the love and attention that they do not always receive; It was the reason I came here and has become the part of this trip which will mean the most to me. However, I also feel that while I maybe made their day a little better .... I still have to leave, going back to my comfortable life in America... and they are still here. Still struggling, still needing help, still needing someone's love and attention. I wish so much there was more I can do. The people I've volunteered with here have really given me a new perspective and I really hope I can carry the things I've learned and seen here, back to my everyday life in the U.S..

I have to admit that when I first arrived, I was a little (ok more than a little) hesitant at the thought of being here until August - it felt like such a long time! While I was getting anxious about what I'd committed myself to for the summer, my mother reminded me, ever so correctly, that really.... 6 weeks is just the blink of an eye; it'd be over before I knew it. (I didn't realize how right she would be :) This may have been only a blink in my life but I have been given a lifetime of memories to hold on to.


Russia on Fire!

For the past week there has been a huge amount of smoke in Yaroslavl. The translators here told us it was from underground fires and when the temperature gets really hot the smoke rises to the surface of the ground. It's so bad that sometimes you can't even see a mile away. I think the hot weather, in addition to lack of rain has contributed to the problem... and by the CNN article I attached, it's obviously not just a problem in this part of Russia...

Moscow, Russia (CNN) -- Wildfires in Russia, among the worst ever there, have killed 25 people, destroyed more than 1,000 homes, and prompted the prime minister to call on local officials to resign, response officials and Russian news agencies reported Friday.

The fires have been raging in five regions as Russia endures dry weather and one of the hottest months on record. Thursday saw Moscow reach 102 Fahrenheit (39 Celsius), the highest temperature since records began in 1879.

The fires are the worst ever to hit the European part of Russia, the region west of the Ural Mountains, the RIA-Novosti news agency said.

Prime Minister Vladimir Putin said there have been 21,690 fires so far this summer, 10 percent more than last year, the news agency reported.

President Dmitry Medvedev ordered the Defense Ministry on Friday to use the military to help tackle the fires, the president's spokeswoman, Natalya Timakova, told the Interfax news agency.

Video: Record Russia heat wave brings wildfires

The government has already dispatched additional firefighting units, along with 16 aircraft and helicopters, to fight the fires, RIA-Novosti said.

Putin and Emergency Situations Minister Sergei Shoigu flew Friday to one of the affected regions, Nizhny Novgorod, where Putin called on local officials to step down.

"I recommend the resignation of the heads of regions (devastated by fire) who have, to a significant degree, lost the trust of citizens," Putin said, according to RIA-Novosti.

Many residents who lost their homes in Nizhny Novgorod had complained to Putin that local authorities' actions were "chaotic and uncoordinated," RIA-Novosti reported.

The fires have so far killed 25 people, including two firefighters, according to an official at the Russian Emergency Situations Ministry. Across the 14 fire-striken regions of central Russia, 1,257 homes have burned, and some 2,000 people have been left without housing. Sixty homes were burned in the region of Moscow.

"I don't know what to do," one Voronezh woman told state TV. "Haven't got any bed linen, cups, spoons, forks left. We're left with nothing. Everything was burned down. We couldn't salvage anything."

Putin said the families of those who died will receive 1 million rubles ($33,000) each in compensation, and the government will pay around 3 million rubles ($100,000) for the reconstruction of each destroyed house, RIA-Novosti said.

Putin also said the government will compensate people for the loss of property, the news agency said.

Temperatures across much of western and central Russia have topped 95 Fahrenheit (35 Celsius) during the past five weeks, RIA-Novosti said.

Thursday's temperature in Moscow broke the previous record high of 99.5 Fahrenheit (37.5 Celsius), set just three days earlier. The month of July is expected to break the record for the hottest month ever recorded in Moscow.

High temperatures in Moscow dropped to between 82 and 86 Fahrenheit (28 to 30 Celsius) Friday because of a breeze, but weekend temperatures were forecast to rise again.

The threat of more fires breaking out will remain high in the Central and Volga Federal Districts next week, given the abnormal heart wave and the lack of rain, the Hydrometeorological Center of Russia has reported on its web site.

The hot, dry weather is believed to have dried out large parts of land, making it easier for flames to spread. Central Russia also has large areas of peat bogs that often catch on fire in dry and hot weather.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Russian Observations

- For reasons beyond my understanding, mullets are still very popular here... despite being told by every Russian girl I've asked that Russian women do NOT like the style
-There are a disproportionate amount of Range Rovers in Yaroslavl... This leads me to believe the following:
a) Range Rovers are significantly less expensive in Russia
b) The majority of the people of Yaroslavl are VERY well off
c) Many people are living beyond their means to obtain the material possessions that were previously denied to them for so long.
From my knowledge of the Russian social system, I believe the answer to be C. One of the first things I learned here is that people still seem to be "getting used to" Capitalism....the things women wear to the grocery store and McDonalds, wouldn't be seen on anyone outside of a nightclub in the US, incredibly fancy cars, designer clothes... all while they're living in run down flats.
-Russians like to stare. Especially when you're speaking english (which I do the majority of the time)
-They LOVE ice cream!! There are probably 2-3 ice cream stands on every street.
-While the Soviets built lots of big buildings, they didn't so much think about maintaining them. Most of the places I've been to (volunteer placements, stores, shops) are somewhat "falling apart"
-Russian roads are BAD. Really bad. This coming from someone used to Chicago potholes. Chicago doesn't have anything on Russia.
-Going along with the bad roads, Russia doesn't have very good drivers either (again, coming from someone from Chicago). From the 6 weeks I've been here, I think I understand the rules of the road ... you just go. There are no lanes, you just move past people and hope they don't hit you.
-(This particular one was told to me by an actual Russian, so I'm not saying this to be mean....) "Russian's are lazy". They aren't really interested in doing anything out of their way to assist you - if whatever your asking causes extra work for them, then forget it. (I understand that this goes back to Communism where everyone had to look after themselves, but it's still difficult to get used to)
-This last one is probably my favorite... Russians are superstitious.... On Monday I went to School 45 and as always, wore my "work clothes" (an old t shirt and shorts). For whatever reason, I wore my shirt inside out. When we got to the school, one of the teachers commented on it and Katya (the translator) told me that it was a Russian superstition that "if you wear your shirt inside out it means you will be beaten... usually by your husband."
Good thing I don't have a husband :)

Sunday, July 25, 2010

The Beginning of the End...

My last week in Russia has began and now I only have 2 more days of volunteering and 3 more days in Russia then it's time to head back home- with a quick stop in Ireland first ;-)

Today was my last day at the Women's hospital and I was very sad to have to say good bye to those women. They have been nothing but warm and welcoming ever since I first arrived - even singing to me on my birthday and giving me gifts. I have to say, the part that makes me the saddest is the fact that I get to go back to my nice, comfortable life back in America... while they stay in this hospital. They have to remain in this place (which would never pass any kind of U.S. health or building codes) and spend their days wandering the halls, sleeping and sitting out by the ; knowing that this is what their life will be like absolutely breaks my heart. I really hope that any hospitals in the U.S. are better than the one I've seen here; while I know that Russia's facilities are overall not up to American or Western European the standards, thinking of them in that facility, day after day with potentially no hope of release... that isn't any kind of life. I feel like while I am there, working with them and spending time with them I am doing some good... but then I leave and I wish so much that I could do more. I hope, hope, hope that my time spent with them has made their days a little better; that they look forward to my visits as much as I do. I know I can't change the system that's in place but hopefully at least, I can maybe make a small difference in the day of of one of those women.

The children's shelter will be my final placement here in Russia Friday morning - and I think its a very fitting place to end my time here. Every single time my group arrives, these children are nothing but smiles and excitement; you would never be able to guess they've been removed from their families and are living in a sort of limbo - not exactly part of a family and not an orphan yet either. As I've mentioned before in one of my previous posts, I've learned here that no matter where you go in the world, there is one thing that is constant.... kids will be kids. While a majority of the time they're perfectly sweet, loving children, there are of course times that they don't want to share, they're jealous of something another child has and they want to get attention in any way they can. I have to say I can't blame them; being part of a large group of children, not having anything that's just your own - I would probably do the same things.
I just hope that these kids stay the nice, sweet, loving children that I know as they grow in to adolescence. None of these kids will have an easy life - education, a job, family - nothing. I just pray that they will be able to work past the disadvantages they've been given and have a successful life. I so wish that there was more I could do - I wish I could "keep an eye" on them, make sure that they know that someone is thinkging about them and caring about them. While I know that's not possible I will try to make my last day with them fun - helping them enjoy being a kid. Maybe at least they'll remember that fun summer when they had those Americans come and play with them... that's all that I can hope for.





Banya!

Below are some pictures from the banya!! Below is the whole group feeling very relaxed after our "3 hour spa"... Oscar, Sarah, Bri, myself, John, Helen and Flo!
The steam room (the banya)
Our own private pool!
On Saturday a group of other volunteers and myself decided to partake in the Russian tradition of the banya. The banya is basically a Russian steam room... where you sit in the steam room and (traditionally) jump into a cold river or the snow when you can't take the heat of the steam anymore. However, I of course wasn't exactly roughing it and we went to a banya that was in a hotel, with our own private pool and banya room :)
The group I was with consisted of myself, two other volunteers Bri and Sarah and the British family (John, Helen, Flo and Oscar). After searching for the location for about 30 min, we found our destination and were promptly lead into our own little "banya room" - with a main room with a large table to hang out/eat our snacks at (apparently you get hungry when you're banya-ing), the steam room off to one side and our own little pool in the corner.
The basic jist of the banya is that you go into the steam room for "as long as you can stand it" and then jump in the cold water (the poool). It's supposed to be exfoliating and very cleansing. You basically do a rotation... steam room, pool, sit at the table and drink tea, repeat. We were in there for 3 hours, which I thought would be too much time but in actuality 3 hours was just about enough time.
I could only spend about 10 minutes in the banya until I was dying from the heat (I couldn't breath through my mouth it was so hot!) but once you jump in the cold water of the pool it feels SO good! Sitting at the table drinking tea, I felt like I would fall asleep! It is supposed to be a very relaxing and cleansing process.
While it wasn't exactly the "traditional" way Russians do the banya - in a wooden hut behind the dacha - I have to say it was a very interesting cultural experience and one that I will always remember from my time in Russia!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

My New Russian Friends!


Friday evening I went to dinner with two of the other volunteers (Jen and Sarah) and we had made plans to meet at a traditional Russian restaurant with Sveta, one of our Russian translators. Sveta has become one of my good "Russian friends" and I was excited to hang out with her - to not just go around Yaroslavl with a bunch of Americans but to see it's like for people who actually live here.
We went to a very traditional Russian restaurant, right on the Volga River embankment. She recommended the dishes that are cooked in a traditional Russian oven and come out in a little pot. I have to say, I tried my best to be adventurous but I opted for a little mushroom pie (a small loaf of bread with mushrooms in it) and a "vegetable mosaic with chicken grill" (a veggie salad with chicken) - sorry! I wasn't that hungry either!! However, I did try Sveta's dish of kasha with pumpkin and honey (literally looked like she was eating oatmeal) and Jen's dish of roast beef with vegetables. They were good but glad I got my salad :)
After dinner we were waiting to meet up with a few of Sveta's friends and we decided to get some Russian champagne to enjoy along the embankment. Just sitting next to the river, enjoying a glass of champagne and talking was probably my favorite part of the night. Sveta is also 24 years old and learned English in school, so she is very good at conversation but of course enjoys talking with us to improve her grammar. I never realized how difficult it is for people - especially Russian women - to come into the United States, even just to visit! Sveta's tried TWICE to obtain a visa to visit the US over her Christmas break and each time she's been denied; apparently it's very difficult for a young, unmarried Russian woman to come to the US - they want to see that you have something that will bring you back to Russia (like a husband) and I had no idea that it was that difficult for them. Sure it was annoying to fill out all the paperwork to get my Russian visa but I never had any doubt that I wouldn't get it. And it's not only to the US, she said that for ANY country she'd like to visit, she has to obtain a visa...except for I think the Ukraine and Kyrgyzstan lol.
After a while Sveta's friends met us - Anya and Natasha. Natasha spoke some English and Anya spoke none but it didn't matter, we had a great time hanging out regardless. Once again, I am completely surprised by the friendliness and warmth I have experienced by Russians. The girls were as friendly as could be and were so excited to show us around the town and talk to us. We spent the rest of the evening talking and walking around the embankment - watching the fireworks from a wedding and the lightening from the rain on the other side of the river.
of the most important things I've learned while I've been here is the fact that while you might think that someone on the other side of the world will be completely different than you, really we have more similarities than differences. We all have the same problems with school, work, significant others, families... it's really no different. While it's interesting to understand what is different - obviously them growing up in a Soviet country and being more limited in what they could do - it's the things that are the same that are the most striking. To be honest, we are not that different at all.

End of Week 5

Thursday my team went to the children's shelter again and it was really great to see the kids two days in a row. My one favorite little girl is Aliona (I know I shouldn't have favorites but she's so cute! I can't help it!) and she is just the cutest and most hilarious little kid I've ever seen! I found out that she's 3 years old and although I don't know what her family situation is or how long she's been to the shelter but as my friend said "she is a force to be reckoned with!" She loves to take your hand and lead you somewhere and decide what you will do (push a doll on the swing) or what you will hold for her - one morning I spent a half an hour holding her doll and mirror and when I set it down she ran over and wrapped my hands around her toys again! And apparently, today when she was trying to tell the other children what they should do, she stomped her foot and said (as told to us by the translator) "No one listens to me!" Besides that, she's also incredibly cute - always wearing a little bandana on her head (I think it's a cultural thing) and just smiles at you with her cubby, baby cheeks! How can you not fall in love with a kid like that?!
Thursday afternoon was spent like most other - at School #45. I'm starting to really get the hang of plastering and painting! Although I think I might be able to do a better job if the paint wasn't watery and smelled like gasoline.... and actually took the plaster off the walls when you put it on - but I guess they have to work with what they've got!

Friday was a quiet day - a big group of the cadets and other volunteers went to St. Petersburg for the weekend, so they left late Thursday evening. When that happens, people usually go in pairs to placements. This morning I went back to the Kirovsky Elderly center, where I had been the Friday before, with Jen. We arrived as they were singing karaoke songs on the TV (yup, even the elderly enjoy karaoke :) and shortly after that we participated in the exercises that one of the women at the center organizes. While I'm sure all the exercises they were having us do have redeeming benefits (especially if you're elderly) it was still comical to see 15 old, Russian women marching, rubbing their ears and necks (apparently that is exercise!) and moving their eyes from side to side... Our craft was beaded bracelets and all of the women were so excited to make something pretty to wear and most of them wanted to wear them immediately. After teaching them how to play Uno (or "Una" in Russian) it was time for their lunch and time for us to head back... but not before one of the women gave me a gift! A pot holder! One that she had embroidered herself!
The hospitality and generosity of the Russian people has not been lost on me. I have to say I had preconceived notion that they would all be cold, unfriendly and not like Americans. While walking down the street most people may seem cold or unfriendly (no one smiles on the street) when you actually get to meet and talk to someone, they're an incredibly warm and welcoming people. I think that in America Russians are viewed at skeptically and curiously and I know that isn't without reason but I have to say, until you meet a real Russian - don't base your thoughts on the negative generalization that has come from their rocky history with the US. Most of the Russian's that I've worked with and met have been just as friendly - if not sometimes friendlier - than people in America.

Friday, July 23, 2010

First Half of Week 5

My fifth week in Yaroslavl has already come to an end and my final week will be beginning in just a few days. This week has been jam-packed with events and I have to say that all-in-all it was a good one :) It was a really busy week, so I split the blog posts into two... here's the first half of the week...

Monday, July 19th - This morning my first placement was at the Fruenzensky city camp. As all Russian children are out of school for the summer from the end of May until September 1, the government offers free or reduced-cost summer camps for those children who come from low-income families or those who are also in orphanages or shelters (the camps also provide meals for the children as well). This is the 2nd time I've been to this camp and just like before, all the children were very excited to see us! I spent most of my time working with the girls (and a few boys) who were interested in doing the craft we prepared (egg-crate bugs) while other kids played Uno, football (soccer) and board games. As English is taught in most schools, many of the children know a few words of English and are anxious to practice on us. Unfortuantely, I do not think I will be back to the city camp so I had to say goodbye for good to all of the kids. It's amazing to think of the struggles they've been through - having no parents or parents who are drug addicts and alcoholics - and yet you cannot see any of that when we are with them. They're so happy to have people who want to play with them and talk to them - every time they leave they give us big hugs and ask us to come back; I'm hopeful that for those few hours we're able to help them forget what it's like at home and just concentrate on being a kid.
In the afternoon my group went back to School #45 - we go there pretty much every afternoon that we have afternoon placements and even though the work can be strenuous and it's incredibly hot in the building, the school officials are so grateful to have our help it's completely worth it. Since they didn't get any money from the government to fix up the school they are doing it themselves and are always very appreciative of our help - today they even took photos of us working, telling us that they were going to show the pictures to the kids and tell them that girls from America came to help fix up the school for them. How sweet is that! That's what makes it worth it for me : )

Tuesday, July 20th - today was my birthday and since I already put up a separate post about that, I won't tell you again what I did.

Wednesday, July 21st - today started out a little sad... my friend Bayliegh - who I emailed before I even came to Russia, who arrived the same day as me, who I traveled with - had to go back home today. She had only signed up for 4 weeks and was actually able to extend her stay by 3 days but it was still sad to say good bye.
Besides the sad morning, the rest of the day went really well - my group went back to the children's shelter and as our van pulled up we were greeted by the kids yelling and jumping up and down - so amazing! It's nice that I've been there a few times already, so I'm getting to know all the kids and they remember me but there were a few more kids this time than last; it just reminds me that while this sometimes looks like a daycare, it's really a place for kids who have been taken from terrible situations and who may never go back to their families. It's really heartbreaking to think that all these wonderfully, sweet kids will spend the rest of their childhood bouncing from one orphanage to the next...until they're 18. It's no way to grow up.
In the afternoon we went on our weekly excursion and this time it was to a "big village" (as described by my program coordinator). Well I guess it was biggER than the first village I went to ... but don't get the impression that this was any kind of thriving city! Pulling up, there are a few stores, 2 hotels (do they REALLY need 2 hotels?) and quite a few people just standing around... and staring. I've learned that people stare at you in Russia when they hear you speaking English. Our guide gave us a "tour" of the village (we really walked around in a big circle) and brought us to the church - a really pretty church that was built in the 1700's and is absolutely covered with golden icons. Then we moved a few blocks down to the separate chapel where baptisms are performed - the font is more of a mini-pool and some in my group even opted to be "baptized" (they just went in the water... I don't think it was a religious experience for them). Our tour wrapped up with a walk through the village museum and a trip to the local pub where they we had tea, cookies and pickles! Apparently this region is really famous for it's pickles (they have a festival and everything!) but I have to say, they tasted like any regular dill pickle I get at home! So maybe I'm not the best judge :)
We got back to Yaroslavl around 6:30pm and had a nice relaxing evening... little dinner, little reading (I'm reading "The Pillars of the Earth" right now) and a little run - don't worry, it was still completely light out at 9:30 pm :) It'll be weird going back home and it getting dark before 11pm! :)

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Picture Update!

So I just got my camera back from the Russian camera shop and it works! Who knew they could fix it!? For only 1,100 rubles no less (that's a little over $30)! So since I have been a little MIA with posting photos, here are a bunch of pictures from the past two weeks.... my friend Bayleigh's 21st birthday, the bonfire we did with the new group, my trip to Kostroma and the moose farm and some pictures from around Yaroslavl and my placement this week. Enjoy!!

Me, Bayleigh and Jen before we went out in Yaroslavl for Bayleigh's 21st birthday...

Lena, me, Asya, Sveta and Jen out for Bayleigh's birthday..
Bayleigh and I in Yaroslavl during her birthday party...
Bayleigh and Jen at the bonfire
Making the fire - good thing we've got guys in the Army!
Outside one of the churches in Kostroma. Women have to cover their heads in Russian Orthodox Churches, so I'm channeling Jackie O a little bit in this one
Onion domes of the church...
Inside the church... it was completely covered with icons and gold..
and the ceiling and walls were all painted..
Me feeding a moose!
baby mooses...
the landscape around the moose farm... typical Russian countryside
entrance to moose farm...
Typical post-Soviet era apartment buildings around Yaroslavl - this is the type of housing most people live in. You don't see a lot of free-standing homes here (or in Russian cities in general)
Soviet era apartment building... there are LOTS of these buildings still around and most are falling apart
The kids at the city camp I've worked with (different than children's shelter). These kids come from low-income families or from orphanages during the summer for free summer camps

My group at School #45


Monday, July 19, 2010

Start of a Great Year

Yesterday was my 24th birthday and while it's not normally an "important" birthday, as I am not planning on having any other birthday's in Russia (although as my mom always says "you never know!") this is one that I will never forget. Normally my birthdays have consisted of maybe going out to dinner (since I turned 21 going to a bar), cake and hanging out with friends and I have to say that the Russians do birthdays pretty much the same way Americans do.
My day started out at the women's hospital (standard for a Tuesday) and while I wasn't planning on it wasn't long before all of the women were singing me happy birthday (in English!) and one woman even gave me a gift! A little box that she had made out of woven candy wrappers!! I was so incredibly touched by their genuine care and love that they gave; here they were, living in a hospital in bad conditions, they'd only known me for a few weeks and I could not talk to most as I don't speak Russian - and they wanted to make sure I had a great birthday. That morning in itself is something I won't ever forget.
At lunchtime the cooks at the homebase prepared a delicious lunch (probably my favorite since I've been here) chicken with broccoli! They must've known it was my birthday :) And then out of nowhere, they came and sang me happy birthday (along with the rest of the volunteers) and presented me with a delicious, traditional Russian apple cake. It was SO good! My afternoon placement was at School #45, painting another classroom but since my entire group was working in one room, we were able to hook up an ipod to speakers and to the soundtrack from Glee :)
For my birthday night me and some of my girlfriends (Jen, Bayleigh, Jenny, Lindsey, Mandie and Bri) went out to dinner at a bar/restaurant that was recommended to us and Sveta, one of the translators, was even nice enough to call the restaurant to make reservations for me! We were able to get a few tables outside and it was SUCH a nice evening! The heat has broken here a little bit (at least for the time being) and we were able to get to the restaurant and sit outside without being the least bit uncomfortable. The restaurant - Dudki Bar - was SOOO GOOD! While it had some more "Russian-y" dishes, missing home we all opted for more American-y food .... fajitas, sushi (me) and quesadillas... ok so maybe not technically American food but definitely NOT Russian food! Another surprise, as we were finishing dinner 3 of the translators - Sveta, Asya and Lena - came to the bar and brought me FLOWERS! Apparently it's a tradition in Russia to give girls flowers on their birthday and they were sweet enough to bring me a bouquet! One of the cadets and the major also stopped by the restaurant to have a birthday drink with me and after that we left to meet up with some of the other volunteers who were also out on the town. When we found the other 3 cadets they had another nice surprise - they had gotten me a flower too!!
Overall it was a great night - I really enjoyed not only spending time with the other volunteers but also especially with the translators. I really didn't expect to become good friends with any Russian people while I was here and now I've been spending every weekend in Yaroslavl (and St. Petersburg) with them! They're all incredibly nice and fun to hang out with but at the same time it's very interesting to talk to them and really understand Russian life and culture... to see how it's different and alot of times - how it's the same as American life and culture.
I had prepared myself for the possibility that I might get a little sad... and maybe even a little homesick on my birthday. While I definitely missed my family and friends (thank you for the phone calls and birthday wishes!) I have to say that I did have a really wonderful birthday in Russia. It was a day that I won't forget for a long, long time and I am so grateful to my new American and Russian friends for making it so memorable.

Worst Heat Wave Since Stalin

Here's an article about the Russian heat wave .... so you know I'm not just making these things up :)

Russia Declares Heat Wave Emergency Amid Drownings and Crop Devastation

Russians sweltered in record-breaking temperatures on Friday as droughts caused crop devastation across the country and hundreds drowned in bathing accidents, which were often influenced by alcohol.

In Moscow, the temperature rose to 33 degrees Celsius, breaking a record for the day set in 1938 under the rule of dictator and Soviet leader Joseph Stalin, according to the state weather center.

Temperatures in 10 central Russian regions will hit 38 degrees in a heat wave lasting at least until July 22, the state weather center forecast.

An emergency drought situation has been declared in 19 of Russia’s 83 regions with crops dying on an estimated 9.6 million hectares of fields.

The Russian drought-struck areas were suffering “colossal destruction,” Agriculture Minister Yelena Skrynnik said this week at a meeting with President Dmitry Medvedev. The coldest place on earth in winter, Oimyakon in the Sakha region, was forecast to swelter at 32 degrees on Friday, the ITAR-TASS news agency reported.

In Moscow, people paddled and bathed in fountains to escape the heat and bought record amounts of ice cream.

“Sales of fruit lollies have gone up 10 times,” the general director of the Union of Ice Cream Makers, Valery Elkhov, told the RIA Novosti news agency, with Muscovites gobbling up 250 metric tons of ice cream per day.

Commuters on the Moscow metro sizzled with temperatures inside some stations topping a very rare 29 degrees.

The Kremlin cancelled a weekly ceremonial performance by mounted troops from the presidential regiment, due to fears that the troops and horses would suffer in the heat.

Customers have flocked to buy air conditioners and fans to beat the heat in concrete office blocks and apartment buildings.

July could be a record-breaking month for Moscow, with the average temperature more than six degrees Celsius above the norm so far, according to the state weather center.

The last records were set back in 1972.

As many cooled down by swimming in rivers and ponds, hundreds died from drowning.

The emergency ministry said more than 400 people had drowned since the beginning of July, while 1,244 people drowned in June.

In a shocking case, two teachers at a Moscow school were charged this week with negligence this week after six children and an instructor drowned during a trip to a beach in southern Russia.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Russia aka The Surface of the Sun

So I remember before I left that pretty much everyone who I told I was going to Russia asked me the same question... "Will it be hot in Russia?.. Will it be Summer there?". Well, I obviously knew that yes, it would be summer in Russia (they're on the same side of the Equator as the U.S.) but I had been informed by multiple sources... (the program I'm on, Wikipedia and Weather.com) that Russian summers are usually really mild (in the 60s...maaaybe 70s) with rain. Ahhhh... NOO! It has been probably one of the hottest summers of my LIFE ! And I live in Chicago!! So you know how hot it's gotta be!
I'm sure you're thinking 'Katie, it's really hot in America right now too... calm down..' Well it may be hot in America right now but you all have a few things that we like to take for granted in the States... one being ice. Just ice. Frozen water. They don't believe in ice here... not for swollen legs and certainly not for drinks! Putting ice in drinks?! That's just crazy!
Another thing Russians don't believe in is air conditioning. So even if it "technically" is a little warmer back home - you all have the luxury (and yes it IS a luxury) of getting away from the heat at some point during the day... at the office, in the car, at home, even the L.. ahhh sitting on a nice cold L would sound amazing right now! I actually remember going into movie theaters and needing to bring a sweater because it's so cold in the summer!
I honestly don't remember what it's like to be cold. Or to not sweat. Sorry, gross I know but where there is heat, perspiration inevitably follows. All. The.Time. I think I loose a few pounds a day by just walking around!
I was told this weekend it was supposed to get to 40. I didn't know what that meant but the Russians and British people that are here had a horrified look on their faces. I just googled it and 40 Celsius is like 90!!! What am I supposed to do in 90?! There's no where to go to get away from the heat :( Apparently it is one of the hottest summers on RECORD in Russia - literally in 100 years they haven't had this hot of a summer ... and I know that's why they don't have AC (they don't need it most of the year) but come on! Even in a large supermarket or a mall?! Americans would be up in arms if there wasn't AC in those kinds of places! Ugghh... just another cultural thing I'm getting through here - I will definitely appreciate the luxuries I have back home. But seriously K, the the apartment better be FRIDGED when we get back from the airport! :)

On another note I am more than halfway done with the program. Only 2 weeks left now... I sound like a broken record but it's amazing how quickly time flies by. Before I know it I will be driving back to Moscow and getting on a plane... to Dublin :) And then obviously back to Chicago... don't worry, I'm coming back :) If I don't melt first.

End of Week 4

This has really been an interesting week... so much has happened but I'll just give you some of the main points :)

Wednesday night - bonfire with the new group to "welcome" them to Yaroslavl.. all in all a success. Had a fire by the river, got to know some of the new group and wore pants and a long-sleeved shirt, thus reducing the bug bites :)

Thursday I went back to the women's hospital. It really just gets to me every time we go there - even though I've gone several times a week since I arrived - living conditions are terrible, I don't know how they're actually "treated" for their "diseases" (if they have any), the lack of everyday necessities that I completely take for granted... this is their LIFE! For many of them they have no family, no friends and no chance of hoping for anything better. It breaks my heart to think of them when we leave ... they always ask when will be the next time we come, they sit by the windows and yell goodbye to us when we walk to the van... it's heartbreaking! I really wish there is more I could do but it's strikingly evident that the Russian social welfare system is nowhere near on par with that of the Western world.

On Thursday it was also my friend's 21st birthday... while it's a right of passage in the US, here they could really care less. They've all been drinking since they could look over the bar. Nevertheless, because we are Americans, we do what Americans do, and we gave Bayleigh a proper 'American' 21st birthday. A group of about 13 people came with us to dinner at a pizza place we frequent (for the free wifi :) and then onto a bar called Mojito (guess what they serve there). Three of the translators who we work with actually met us out, so it was really fun to hang out with them in a non-work setting. Plus, they brought us to an out of the way bar after Mojito, that we'd had no idea about. It was right on the Volga River.. with an amazing view! It was really nice.
The only BIG downside to the night was at the very end. Someone in my group (who will remain nameless) bumped into me and my camera fell to the floor. Not thinking it was a big deal, I just picked it up and tried to turn it back on. FAIL! I worked on it all night and nothing happened... the lens just goes in and out but it won't go in all the way. So disappointing! And since I wear my emotions on my sleeve, everyone could tell I was not in the best mood and the party quickly disappated and we headed home. It was time to head back anyway.

Friday I went with my friend Jen to the Kirovsky Elderly center - a new place I'd never been to before. (Everyone but me and 4 other volunteers left for Moscow early Friday morning, so it was a smaller volunteer group). We did the exercises with them... including rubbing your ears and moving your eyes from side to side (?) followed by a long Q&A and discussion with us. Not a lot of foreigners (especially Americans) visit Yaroslavl so I've found that people are very interested in your story... where you're from, why you're here, your impressions of Russia... I'm always a little surprised that people of that generation are so welcoming and open towards us. I probably shouldn't be but the perception that has permeated American society is that Russian people are all bad and scary (in most movies the bad guy is a Russian!) but that is NOT the case at all! Everyone I've worked with has been extremely friendly and hospitable. One lady today even gave me a gift when I was leaving - a little coaster she had sewen! And she had just met me that morning - It's been a pleasant surprise that all the Russian's I've actually met have exceeded all my expectations.
Friday afternoons are free, so me, Jen and Bayleigh were invited by 2 of the translators to come to a mall in the suburbs of Yaroslavl. Even though I physically cannot get any more things into my suitcase (and I will probably end up leaving some things behind just to get the weight down) I thought it'd be an interesting cultural experience anyway :) Besides the 30 min un-air conditioned bus ride there in which I was tossed from my seat, Russian malls are fairly similar to American malls.... except that none of the stores are the same and I can't talk to the sales people.
The rest of the night was fairly low-key, relaxing, nap from 6pm-8pm, visiting with the British family (more cultural immersion!) and watching "Anastasia" - the animated version :) Of course now I'm critiquing all the places and people. Obviously I'm an expert by now.

Oh! And I also dropped my camera off at the repair shop this morning... with a little help from the translator who was gracious enough to come with me (thanks Olga!) I'm REALLY hoping that they can fix it... and of course, not cost alot. So keep your fingers crossed! I know my pictures are really fun :)

Only 2 weeks left... Don't worry, I will make the most of them. It's not every day that you're in Russia.

Monday, July 12, 2010

New Group & Beginning of Week 4

This week has really flown by already! I don't mean to neglect my blog but the time honestly has gotten away from me!

Sunday was the first day that I've actually slept in while in Russia and I took advantage of it! After waking up around noon (haven't done that since I was in college!) me, Jen and Bayleigh decided to have a relaxing afternoon lying on the beach. Since we weren't planning on going in the water, just lying out, we decided to go to the closer beach (the one that's highly recommended not to swim) but since we weren't swimming, there was no issue. I think I may have actually gotten some color too! Being used to the sun in Colorado, where you burn after 20 min, after sitting outside in Russia for about 2 hours... I may have some sort of microscopic tan.

The new group of volunteers didn't arrive until about 7pm (after only a 4 hr bus ride - much less thrilling than my 8 hr ordeal from the airport). There are about 9 army cadets from West Point, a few girls volunteering and a family of 4 from England. Trying to be the gracious 'older' volunteers, me and the 2 remaining girls invited the group out to McDonald's, to give them a taste of what Yaroslavl has to offer (and for us to use the internet :). I have to say, it is a little interesting being with a group who knows nothing about living in Russia and I have to tell them all the little details that I've already learned in my 3 weeks... how to get on the bus, where to get off, how to order, what to do at the HB, what not to do at the HB... not that I mind but going from a group where you experienced all these new things together, to telling the new group how to do all these things... it's different. Not bad, just different. The night ended up fine, getting back from McDonalds and visiting with the rest of the volunteers while watching Spain dominate the Netherlands.. well, maybe not dominate, but Spain won :)

On Monday morning I went to a placement that I'd never been to before, the Children's City Camp. This is essentially a summer camp for children from low-income homes, who have alcoholic and drug addicted parents or even, who come from the orphanages. As always, the children were very excited for us to spend time with them... they were super excited to play football (soccer) and there were even a few boys playing basketball... or some kind of game where they shot the ball into the hoop.... and Dad you'd be very proud, I was helping them learn how to play basketball :) In the afternoon I worked outside for a while at the Botanical Gardens - it's sometimes nice to work there because it's so different than all the other placements but I have to admit it is HOT and the mosquitos are unforgiving! I think I will come home comepletely covered in red bumps ...

Tuesday was my regular schedule of working at the women's hospital in the morning and at the school in the afternoon. Although at the school I did have a slight issue when I stood on a chair to scrape some of the paint and essentially fell completely off and now have a giant welt on my leg. Oh and Russia doesn't believe in ice or ice packs. When I asked the translator if they had any ice at the homebase I could put on she said I could maybe find some cold chicken to put on it. Needless to say, I passed on the chicken and am just waiting for the swelling to go down :)

Wednesday we did not have any placements at all but instead went on an all-day cultural excursion to Kostroma.. a town about 2 hrs from Yaroslavl. We went in an "air-conditioned" bus (aka after it had been running for about 20 min there was slightly cooler air coming from the vents) and our first stop was a moose farm. Yup, a moose farm. Let me tell you, this place is out in the middle of NOWHERE but apparently they breed mooses... I still don't really know whyyyy they breed mooses but they do. You can also try delicious moose milk at their little gift shop... and if you think I tried moose milk you clearly do not know me well at all! I don't drink regular, American milk... you think I'm going to drink Russian moose milk? HA! :)
Our other stops on the trip were the monestary - where apparently is where the Romanov Dynasty was started... way back in the 1400s Mikael Romanov was in hiding with his mom at the monestary and while he was there he was elected by people in Moscow to be the next tsar (he was also 14yrs old...). Our last stop was a church that had been decorated to resemble an Anglican Church. This was because apparently Queen Elizabeth and Ivan the Terrible did alot of trading and since Kostroma is on a river, alot of merchants became really wealthy from trading with England. Thus they felt the need to build a chuch :)

It was an interesting trip but it was just SOOOO long and SOOO hot that at times, it was a little difficult to be completely focused on what I was seeing and where I was. It's SUCH a different place and a different life here, I'm really glad I'm getting to see outside of Yaroslavl (and Moscow and St. Petersburg)... I've become quite the Russian traveler :)

Saturday, July 10, 2010

ROTC's Last Day :(

So I know that I've mentioned them before but basically this whole time that I've been here there have been about 20 ROTC cadets who had been volunteering at the same time. I even arrived on the same plane as them... and despite seeing me cry at JFK, they looked past that and have become some of my very good friends. This has been the group that has let me (along with 2 other girls) come with them on their trips to Moscow and St. Petersburg, has included me in everything that they've done and essentially turned me into a pseud0-cadet (while still remaining very much a civilian :). They've been such a great group of kids... and I feel REALLY old for saying 'kids' but seeing as how I'm anywhere from 5-2 years older than them, I did occasionally feel a little old - being called "Mom" by a few of them didn't help the situation either. Despite that, they didn't hold it against me and I was lucky enough to really get to know them both as a group and also as individuals. It's amazing how much you can learn about people in 3 weeks - granted we did live, sleep, work and travel together!
But like all good things, it must come to an end. The Army only signed the cadets up for 3 weeks and Saturday morning (today) was their final day in Yaroslavl.

I had never really met anyone in the Army (or any branch of the military for that matter) and was REALLY unsure of what to expect... joining the army and fighting is so far from what I thought I would ever or could ever do that I wasn't sure how others could to pursue a life like that. All of my expectations were completely blown out of the water when I met some of the nicest, most sincere and hardest working people I've had the pleasure to get to know. I have a completely new perspective and renewed respect for the people who go overseas and give their time and their lives, leave their friends and family, for their country...and in their case, not only that time but in the case of the ROTC, so much time DURING college! I spent college going to football games, class and being in a sorority.... The amount of time that they spend in regular class PLUS doing all of army stuff (I've heard PT being thrown around alot... which I think involves waking up early and working out) is truly admirable and deserves alot of respect and recognition.

The last night with the cadets was another one of my favorites... I went with a small group into downtown Yaroslavl to have a farewell drink (or 2) to send them off right, Russian style :)I have to say that saying good-bye to them this morning was a little - ok more than a little - sad. It's odd to have an experience like this, in a new country, new culture, with all these people... and them to go on and you to stay behind. I'm excited for what the next 3 weeks have in store but I know that it won't be the same as the first 3; and I wouldn't want them to be the same either - I had such a wonderful and memorable time with my new friends, I know I will remember this time - and them - for the rest of my life.

There will be a new group of cadets arriving tomorrow (I think 9?), along with a few other volunteers and while I'm excited to see what the next 3 weeks have in store I won't ever forget this time or these people. To all of them, PLEASE stay safe and keep in touch!!

So to Maj. Z, Maj. Hannick, Ben, Jose, Jose, Nordby, Barbian, Christmas, Lynch, Hurst, Rachel, Hannah, Clegg, Brown, Boston, Shelton, Piper, Tim, McClure, Cave, Richardson, Donald, Garry and Justin.... thank you for an amazing 3 weeks. It wouldn't have been Russia without you :)



Yes Russia DOES have a Beach!

On Thursday, since it was the 2nd to last day for the ROTC cadets, our program coordinator agreed (with some convincing from their majors) that we should all go to the Yaroslavl beach in the afternoon! The Volga is the main river that goes through Yaroslavl and there are basically 2 beaches... the one that says you're "HIGHLY recommended to NOT swim in the water" and the one that only says you're "Recommended not to swim in the water." - we opted for the latter :)

It was a little interesting, since the Russian idea of "swimsuit" is slightly different than what we'd see in America.... basically the bottoms were a little skimpy... on the women AND men! :) In true American fashion, American's never let their presence remain a secret when in foreign countries and our group was in full force yelling in the water and bringing chicken-fights to the Federation. We may have gotten a few stares and "what hell are they doing?" but honestly, when else will you swim in the Volga river with some great friends?! NEVER!! We even got some of our Russian translators to chicken fight too, although I think they thought we were a little crazy and tried to disassociate from us as much as possible... Below are some of our translators... Asiya, Katya (blue), Katya's Russian bf (can you tell he's Russian??) and Sveta (in the yellow top)

After about 4 hours in the scorching Russian sun (you think I'm joking, but I'm serious... it's HOT here!) headed back for a quick shower and off to a night of bowling! Believe it or not we found a legit bowling alley in Yaroslavl... all we had to do was go down a dark alleyway to find it. But seriously... Don't worry! Everything ended up fine!! :) Except for the fact that I'm a horrible bowler no matter what side of the ocean I'm on! After a quick trip to McDonalds (I've seriously been to McDonalds more in the past 3 weeks then in the past 3 years!!) I walked back to the homebase.. trying to take in the whole day and the realization that my first 3 weeks were almost up.




I have to honestly say that the day at the beach was the most fun I've had in Russia ... friends, sun, sand, the Volga and maybe a little bit of Baltika 7 - what more could you want for a great Russian afternoon?!